Quote from DeadWolfBones :

I can only think you haven't read the last few pages of this thread, and even if that's true, this is still a brutally uninformed and unconstructive comment.

Scawen, thanks for all the work you do, and sorry if we occasionally get too hung up on the small stuff.

+1

For what its worth:

I've spent considerable time with the GTR class sets on oval. From what I have done, the XRR is only a few hundredths faster than the FZR so they are pretty close. The fXR on the other hand is 6 tenths or more slower per lap. Whether it should be or not is beside the point. It is.

Certainly more time can be shaved somewhere... but it looks to me like im down close to the best I can find in W21.

Great, thanks for taking the time to explain Scawen. It seems to be working well here.

Last edited by hammer it, Fri, 11 May 2007 13:46.

I'm a little confused about the change to .dds
The converted skins are 18% larger than the corresponding .jpg's were
Wasn't the goal supposed to be to make the file size smaller to use less bandwidth?

As far as the physics error goes. on the [noobs] jump! server (Blackwood with jumps added) there were many of these occuring. After removing 10-15% of the objects it didn't seem to change the amount of errors that occured. I have no hard data to back that up but that is how it seems to me.

Mines a Pentium 2.8, 512 ram, X1600 and it runs great. Not a high end machine but thats the choice I made in the poll as it suits it best and I can handle more graphics than LFS has. My frame rates are near 100 most of the time. Ive been going to bump the ram up a bit but there really is no reason to do it at the moment so I havent.

I think for the most part the game should be geared toward the middle of the road machines or maybe a bit lower. No reason to exclude anyone due to not having a big buck investment in their pc. Besides, thats more money for the devs!

waY2Go

Quote from Scawen :

If you want a sim then you are avoiding many of the problems of reality, and cutting it down to the actual racing. That's the purpose of a racing sim. Get in and RACE. Similarly the purpose of hotlapping is to get in and LAP!

I think that's it in a nutshell. With the ability to make things easier, more convenient, and more appealing, why not do it!

Contact Logitech they may be able to help

Quote from spankmeyer :

Answer is recalibrating axes in LFS. Pump the pedals, turn the wheel, squeel like a piggy and assing the axis to proper controls. Invert if required.

Do you have pics of how to do this?

My momo is the black racing version. Sorry, I should have said that in the first place. It has the pots that mount with the little arm with a ball on the end. Plastic pots. I have seen these same pots in metal somewhere... was a few months ago but I cant find it now. I recall it being stated that the metal ones were more durable. Dunno.
Maybe its time for a DFP
Im not interested in the new one coming out at all

Well, I will have to keep looking for the metal pots then.

Well I think this is it....

Site:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts ... h/dksus.dll?KeywordSearch

Part:
963282-KIT-ND

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks for that. Logi will not replace them as I do not have the receipt. Been there done that. Anyway, somewhere I saw the metal pots that directly replace the momo ones. They are nearly identical. Man I wish I had bookmarked that!!

I was really looking for the exact replacement pots... the ones with the ball on the end only in metal. They are the same as the ones in the new DFP's I think. Thanks anyway mate!

Anyone have a link to where I can get the metal pots?
Thanks in advance

Man it sure sucks to have to work and miss all the fun
I haven't been threatened with the spam police in quite a while

Last edited by hammer it, Fri, 12 May 2006 20:34.

Quote from Becky Rose :

You're kidding aren't you? One of your lot blasted past me last night. I felt like a total newb !

Just remember [noobs] aren't as slow as you might think

Surely someone has an answer for this.

In the past I used microswitches to count laps for slot cars. The switches were installed in the track and the cars tripped them. A printer cable was cut off and select wires used. It was recommended that I use a resistor but thousands of laps and it was still ok. .

Now, With the introduction of software reading the inputs and calibrating it, I don't know the outcome of dead shorts and open circuits. Surely the variable resistors that are used (pots) do not reach extreme resistance readings such as this.

Thoughts please

So what about the switches *trying to get back on topic*

That new wheel sounds nice but I havent seen a good pic yet. It supposedly has a gated shifter and a clutch pedal. The pics Ive seen do not show the shifter and the pedal is probably just another pedal to cause trouble. Maybe im just too negative LOL

So, does this pet hair eat much? :biggrinfl

Last edited by hammer it, Thu, 11 May 2006 16:24.

Thanks for that but I have already done all of the fixes. None are permanent.

My question is about adding the switches. Does there have to be some impedence introduced into the circuit to make it work properly or is a dead short / open circuit ok to do? If needed then what value resistor should I use?

I have the typical momo pedal troubles. I was curious though, my problem seems to only be with the brake... it is on a bit when my foot is off the pedal. Can I install a microswitch in the wire going to the pot wire that will break the circuit when my foot is off the pedal? I mean I know I can but will it hurt to have an open circuit.

Also, can I place another switch in the accelerator that gives complete connection, 0 ohms, when pedal at full throttle?

Yep, im all over this one

Before the recent patch's the roofed version had a higher top speed and less acceleration.. or so it seemed anyway. The convertible would corner way better too.